large courtyard restaurant filled with heavy duty looking and drinking artist and intellectual types. Try the Anya salad, the house specialty, with chicken and sesame. The somewhat more-creativethan-thou denizens tend to keep their own counsel; however, like anywhere, a smile and a few words of actual Hungarian will work wonders. Step outside. Isn't that a Lada parked there? To be sure, one of the cool things about the Eighth is its time warp quality. One moment you think you're back in New york in the 80s, the next you're back in the 60s the Hungarian 60s, that is. And isn't that Michael Curtiz, the Budapest-born film director of Casablanca, approaching out of the gloaming? The Eighth's other cultural monolith the opulent Museum of Applied Arts (Üllöi út 33-37) was commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire's 1896 Millennium Celebrations, the museum is the masterwork of Ödön Lechner, the father of the Hungarian Nouveau or Secession Movement. At first blush the most astonishing aspect of this out-of-this-world building, with its gold and green cupola and arcaded courtyard surrounded by cloisters designed in Indian-Oriental style, is its exterior. But the museum's cornucopia-like holdings, which cover the decorative arts from the 14th to 20th centuries, are no less dazzling. Dive in. Unwind over lunch at Darshan udvar, a restaurantcum-exotic wares emporium at Krúdy Gyula utca 8. Set within an equally otherworldly faux-Mongolian courtyard, this newcomer to the district includes a health food shop, an "ethno clothing" outlet, and a Buddhist bookshop. If it's Saturday it's probably too late to shop. Most Budapest stores tend to close at 2 pm on Saturdays. Instead, check out the flea market in the courtyard of Spring Art, next to Lumen. Buy a cup of tea and join the line of bargain hunters as they sift and sniff through the diverse antiques, memorabilia and wares on offer. For some down home Hungarian Jewish cooking try Horánszky utca at Fülemüle (No. 5). Arguably the Eighth's top eatery, this intimate restaurant offers savory dishes like crispy leg of goose with potato latkes with sour cream sauce amidst a warm, pre-war atmosphere. Now it's time to get down. If jazz is your thing, sashay over to the hotsy-totsy Budapest Jazz Club (Múzeum utca 7). Order a gin and fizz at the welcoming front room bar and listen to Budapest Bossa Nova and other cool combos do it to at this showcase for local and foreign bebop founded in 2008. Still in the groove? Boogie over to Corvintetö (1 Blaha Lujza tér) a mammoth bar-cum-danceteria on the fourth floor of the hulking old Corvin department store. This new hipster in spot features a 30-metre bar manned by a squad of quick-fingered professional "mixer boys and girls," a biomorphic light display and a 600-square-metre rooftop terrace where you can listen to top local DJs spin while waiting for the sun to rise. FinnAir Flies nonstop daily to Budapest in cooperation with oneworld partner Malev. PETRIFUN.
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